Ok so it's science and trust me, I'm a 'tist. Basically, antiseize is sort of a rust and also base chemical. So we need an acid to start the chemical reaction of unlocking it (rather than just stripping it with a wrench).

That's because the first step in the seizing process involves the dissolution of antiseize and the surface into solution. The formula for this is:

Fe(s) → Fe2+(aq) + 2e-

The electrons produced by this reaction combine with iron ions in the antiseize as well as with dissolved oxygen to produce water:

4e- + 4H+(aq) + O2(aq) → 2H2O(l)

These two reactions produce water and iron(II) ions and creates a bond. YOU NEED TO INTRODUCE AN ACID WITH THE APPROPRIATE PH THE CANCEL THAT REACTION. The consumption of ions that occurs as the acid dissolves leaves a preponderance of hydroxide (OH-) ions in the metal. The iron(II) ions react with them and needs to look like this to unbond:

Fe2+(aq) + 2OH-(aq) → Fe(OH)2(s)

If that looks familiar you're right, urine. Since urine has the exact PH balance the unbind it you need to either submerge the upper in urine or at least pour it onto the upper a few times. Once you have, and there isn't another way to say it, pissed on your gun, it would look like

4Fe2+(aq) + 4H+(aq) + O2(aq) → 4Fe3+(aq) + 2H2O(l)

These iron ions are responsible for the formation of the deposit that gradually eats holes into the metal to bind will begin to release. They combine with the extra hydroxide ions to form iron(III) hydroxide:

Fe3+(aq) + 3OH-(aq) → Fe(OH)3

This compound dehydrates to become Fe2O3.H2O, which can be easily broken with a little heat from a torch and a wrench. Once it's off the remaining chemical on the barrel that's been peed on and heated will be

4Fe + 3O2 + 6H2O → 4Fe(OH)3

That can easily be cleaned with some urine, rubbing alcohol and a rag.