Chrome-lined so I wouldn't feel as bad running steel case. From my research, the Gen2 PA10 has less clearance for some BCG's, the Gen3 has additional relief cuts. If yours clears once built, it should be gtg. Larue MBT-2 for a trigger. On r/gundeals a month or so back there were some real cheap deals on DPMS uppers
- runs up huffing & puffing, lifts gut to access bright red fanny pack
- contents spill all over the ground, adjusts 'MEDIC' sash as I bend over at the waist to reacquire the tools of my trade
- haphazardly applies chi-com RAT tourniquet, the sight of blood makes me queasy so I look away as the RAT continues to slip.
- brave fellow justice warrior continues to moan, the bleeding hasn't slowed
- running out of my meager collection of supplies, I grab the included decompression needle
- fuzzy recollections of my youtube training vids push through the adrenaline
- fellow warrior gazes up at me with wide dilated eyes and shakes his head
- Shit, I'm running out of time
- hold down the poor fellow as I raise the needle over my head in preparation, determined to keep this hero alive
Not sure what the proper solution to that is. I'd try using 1 crush washer, but sand down the small end some in order to require less crushing. It probably wont help much, but I always install crush washer muzzle devices by tightening down, easing off, tightening down more like I'm tapping a hole. If you have accuracy problems, I could see the double crush washers as a potential culprit due to uneven muzzle crown pressure. Otherwise it probably isn't a big deal.
What exactly is preventing you from timing with a single crush washer?? Worst case, you can crank a full 360 degrees down onto a single crush washer? If you have too many threads or too shallow of a muzzle break, I'd use a solid spacer instead of another crush washer.
True. If you go with Aero M5 receivers, look up the thread on arfcom. Before you start, watch several videos from the School of the American Rifle, get an actual book, attend a class, ect. to ensure that you truly understand everything that's happening in the AR platform. Pretty much everything is amplified when you blow the design up to .308 and tolerances are less forgiving, even with reputable parts. Weird things like bolt stops can start breaking. A homebuild is the best way to get a sub-moa tack-driver, though.
M1A is fast- here is 3-gun Heavy Metal division god Patrick Kelly- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JuQ_zQ2gGAU
M1A scout is a cool gun. Not too heavy with a poly stock, either. I wouldn't want less than a 18" barrel on any .308 platform anyway. It is easy to stone any M1-style trigger into being match-worthy if you know what you're doing, and any accuracy issues are easily resolved by checking stock fitment. If you get the standard-length, it would double as a decent rifle to show up to CMP service-rifle competitions with.
For a AR10, an 18" rifle-gas chrome lined CORE-profile from Criterion would be choice, imo. Hopefully they'll offer that profile. I'd probably also go for a BGC with dual ejectors.
Collasping stock isn't much of a trade-off. You'd only fold it for storage, and even then you might as well split an AR.
No experience with battle rifles beyond the M1/M14. Since I believe .308 is best regulated to a DMR or other specialized roles, and battle rifles in general are best for collecting/range toys, I'd say M1A or CMP M1. Accurate irons, reliable if you keep the action covered when in the muck. Natural ergonomics if you grew up with wood and steel instead of pistol-grips. Fun to shoot, very manageable recoil.
My reasoning for no SCAR17 anyway- a well build AR-10 is just as good in the DMR role, and will be lighter than a SCAR. Top tier AR-10 is cheaper than a SCAR. Not as reliable over an extended carbine class- needs to be kept cleaner than a comparable AR from what I've seen (mostly home-brew builds). But if you've already expended multiple full combat loads of .308, and didn't get a chance to clean your BCG at the end of the day, things would be dire indeed anyway. Cheaper mags. More parts available. Better ergonomics and manual of arms for an AR-shooter. Being able to take a far-forward, wrap-around grip is big for me. (still possible on the M1/M14 platform)
The ideal alternative was the small-frame .308 AR pattern DPMS came up with before Remington screwed that and themselves over.
G17. Still concealable if you need full size mag capacity, better for open OWB carry or permanent HD duty with a light installed. Get a another, smaller gun than even a G19 for CCW to ensure you don't leave it at home, IMO.
My first centerfire was... a K-31. I still regret selling it.
If you are at all attached to your current, wkend-level loadout, I'd recommend keeping both and saving up for something modern. If you're not, SKS's have appreciated some and the sale of both would get you a decent AR even in today's market. I recommend getting a good rifle before a pistol.
I agree that a 20" AR with irons is a wonderful experience, especially in the A1 style. Using A1 parts from AR15discounts.com will net you a solid rifle that costs the same as a flat-top, free-floated build that would still need optics or jank picatany-mounted irons. I place top of limited division (irons or RDS) in the local matches with mine- once you learn to aim over the top of the sights, CQB-distance shooting is just as fast as with a red dot. Low-light is the only hindrance, but irons are still the standard of reliability everything else is measured against.
Other than that I would recommend a 16" mid-length upper from most anywhere reputable. A Holosun RDS, the 2x ACSS prism, or the primary arms 1-6x sfp scopes are probably the best deals in optics right now- but any of those is a substantial step up in $ from a rifle-length iron-sights build. Using fixed irons on mid-length system is doable, but is definitely slower/less accurate than rifle-length fixed irons in my experience. Stock up on mags for whatever you get, I'd consider a minimum of 8 as a combat load.
If you already have a supply of 7.62x39, I'd look into PSA's GF3. They are available- join the PSA AK group or refresh every day at the time they add them to the website. 30rd mags vs your SKS would be a big upgrade, with the option of adding optics later.
Regardless of what you run, everyone focuses on the gun instead of your web gear. Surplus Alice or SMERSH rigs are excellent in the field, but are slow on the square range. IMO esstac KYWIs are the best mag pouches for everything you'd want a belt-mounted pouch for. A Safariland ALS holster + nub mod can't be beat for either speed or retention by anything else made. Add a med kit, rifle KWYI's, and a double AR mag pouch, (no pistol needed) to a rigger's belt and call it good. Pair with the lightest PC setup you can afford. If you can't afford light ceramic plates, get a nice chest rig along the lines of what UW Gear offers. You need a small backpack for hydration/food/sleep kit. Get a nice pair of boots and wear wool socks. If you don't carry at least 2 CAT tourniquets on your loadout, or at least one to the range, then that should be your first purchase. Better yet, attend a Stop the Bleed class and pick up one or two for free.
If the mere concept of 30-round mags and fighting with less than a .30-cal projectile is abhorrent to you, I maintain that an M1 > SKS even in current year. The CMP sells field-grade specials with new barrels for $650, a true deal for a fighting rifle. Garand-safe .30-06 prices are the same as puny intermediate cartridges right now, and with some practice, enbloc clips are much faster than strippers while reloading. Even faster than the superior Swiss chargers for the K31. The best way to carry M1 clips is in the M1956 ammo pouches. 6 clips to a pouch, properly stacked, ensures reliably quick reloads. M2AP is still available if you look for it, as well....
This is good. For sure commonalize caliber and magazines with your buddies if you can. .223 and 7.62 are both cheap to train on in normal times.
Interesting point with the bayonets- I agree that it would be an additional deterrent for sure, and adds a step of escalation before you have to start blasting. The US Army WW2 bayonet training films are pretty good.
I've been looking at the HRT RAC Plate Carrier, they look solid and have that quick-release.
I currently run an Esstac Daeodon ASS. It's very well-made, and is comfy with the pontoons installed. The Esstac front panels are awesome, great retention and draw/reindexing speed. Without the pontoons it conceals decently under a jacket, but the limiting factor to that will always be how thick your plates are. I can slide it on & off in seconds for home defense. It is low-profile and is best when you just need plates, 3 mags, and a TQ like how I run it during Tactical Games matches. My biggest gripe with it is how the entire back is covered in velcro. I don't run a velcro cumberbund, and my patch collection is best left off of the competition scene...
I find myself wanting something more substantial in addition to it. More mags, a radio, blow-out pouch, potential provision for side plates. Covered mags for the elements & proning out in the dirt. Option to attach back panels for hydration, ect. Hence the RAC.
A solid take, thanks. I've primarily been considering Vortex from the current sale at europtics, but it seems that most manufacturers are moving towards larger erector ratios for nice glass. I wouldn't mind a FFP 4-12x.
I have my A1 clone for irons and a primary 16" with an ACSS 1-6x that I really enjoy. B/C of that I'm leaning towards a 3-15x to start reloading for accuracy with. With me being out west, 6x doesn't seem like much when glassing the distance. I also blame the BA Hanson barrel on the 16", since my A1 can lay down tighter groups than it, but a 1-6x or 1-8x would probably be the most practical.
Currently assembling an 'SPR' build around an 18" Criterion CORE barrel. For targets within 600yds, would yall take a 2-10x scope @ 19oz, or a 3-15x @ 28oz? Planning on an offset RDS either way. I wish 3-15x FFP scopes were lighter...
ONLY BUY, NO SELL
I have a personal bias against turkish guns (I actively try to buy 'merican guns & accesories, if that's not possible then I at least make sure my optics aren't made in China...) so I haven't owned/shot one, but I do like the Walter the Canik is based off of. Shot that fine, and I liked the grip better than a glock. I personally limit myself to pistols that I can order parts for or send back to the manufacturer for repair, since in a normal year my pistol sees a few thousand rounds down the pipe. Not sure what the Canik policy is on that?
I also have gotten the best deals on gats I want through trading up or down, instead of using cash. You never know if someone with a custom 1911 is thirsty for a cheap turkish gun and is willing to trade below market value??? Then shoot new gun, trade for what you actually want at an equivalent value, ect...
They just stopped selling the LE-series AR's to civilians