If you must have only one gun, then get a G19. Otherwise, get the best tool for the job. A G43 with 15rd shield mags, P365, or a Hellcat for CCW. Get a G17 with an RDS installed for competition/duty use on a warbelt. Do IDPA matches with your carry piece, compete in every other discipline with your G17 or other full-size gun.
Most local matches are fine with letting you run anything, from a AIWB ccw setup to my warbelt and chest rig. The additional stress from competing on a clock is great practice over just training by yourself. I don't own a gun that I haven't ran a match with, its a great way to vet your gear on a limited round count. If you can find 2 gun matches, a tactically-minded setup will compete just as well as a gaming rig until you start placing among the state-level sponsored shooters. It's fun to run my 100% reliable M&P against tricked-out 2011's that often choke on their powder-puff reloads. A Safariland ALS holster with a nub mod is just as fast as an open kydek 'gun perch' if you train. AIWB is crazy fast too if you know what you're doing.
No laser. Get a Streamlight Tlr-1 instead at that price range, or spring for a Surefire X-300 for $199
No night vision is worth getting at that price range over a nice, light-gathering illuminated scope. Spend that money on a Vortex Viper 3-15x or similar for a SPR setup, search discount codes for europtics.com for 15% off...
Holoson 507C, I like the circle around the dot. But do you really need a one on a shotty? I'd rather mount it to a 45deg offset on the SPR setup, or put it on a pistol. Don't put it on the pistol unless you have the ammo to retrain yourself with, though...
I wonder if that new round will still be re-loadable. It finally looks like something that gives a reason to switch from .308 or .223 if they can make it cheap enough, though. Now I'm imagining that hybrid case design being scaled up or down into all kinds of crazy wildcats...
OP, if I was buying a 6.5 I'd pick a rifle that uses a barrel nut like that Savage you're looking at so I could change out the barrel myself. Even in a bolt action, a 6.5 would only last ~5years of fairly consistent plinking if you shoot for groups, but if you do PRC matches regularly you'll end up replacing barrels nearly every year.
Read or listen to Cold Camp, it's a great modern civil-war read. I reloaded a few hundred rounds to this one-
That is good price right now, especially if the ammo is GP11. GP11 has been $1/rd for awhile now, it was .35/rd about 5yrs ago. These are 1MOA guns if bubba hasn't ruined the bore- the Swiss took excellent care of them. Being tapped does lower the value, but then again it allows you to mount your own scope. 7.5x55 is an excellent cartridge, giving .30-06 power with .308 accuracy. I recommend picking one up if you're set everywhere else
Replacement would probably be easiest. Any Garand-style action is going to need some fitting into the stock. This is good- a tight stock to action fitment is the best thing you can do to accurize these guns. Any wood replacement stock shouldn't require more than a few minutes with a file to get right.
ACRAGLASS will save your bacon.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKeOQVsyRMU
Watch some Mark Novak, he is a wizard at these kind of repairs and restorations. You should be able to piece it back together with enough acraglass and in-set allthread.
M1 Carbines are great little guns. Replace every spring in it and it should be very reliable, most issues are from old springs. Order as many mags as possible, of course. The mags aren't that durable so inspect them for dings/function test for reliability.
Basically quoting Rousseau there- government came about in order to protect the property of the 'haves' from the 'have-nots'. The 'have-nots' will always outnumber the 'haves,' so concessions must be made in order for the 'haves' to keep most of their property less it all be taken unlawfully.
Best use is in plywood shoot-houses. Being able to break the 180' and blast targets at close range is good fun, without having to resort to an airfag setup