Some of you may have seen my post about not being allowed to carry a concealed zapper at work larger than my dick. I'm taking real suggestions about what I should buy.
extremely concealable (assume my dick is average)
2 10 rounds minimum, nothing smaller than 9mm
3)needs to be super reliable
max price $600ish
must have a manual safety (meth demands it because kids or something?)
I'm going to cerakote it a solid color, make recommendatikna
Heckler & Koch Mk23 with optional LAM and suppressor. Tell people it is your dick. Whip it out as often as possible. Wear a bandana made from 25ft of cloth. Bonus yard and office pops with nobody able to claim hearing damage.
It’s Jessie the Bod Ventura of guns. A fucking sexual Tyrannosaurus.
Raven 25, use the extra $575 dollars for ammo and training.
Seriously tho. If you don't go with the Glock 43 because it's lacking a manual safety (or hate how it feels in the hand like I do) check out the Shield, they're both real popular for a reason. The Hellcat's not bad but I still hate Springfield armory and anything else is just not so much better than the 43 or shield for the dosh.
Fairly sure the shield has a manual safety variant, I know the shield EZ does so I see no reason the basic shield wouldn't. "Cerakote color" is Enamel Rustoleum Red. Spray it, bake it, tuck it.
Comparison.... Ryan Reynolds... No real reason it should be popular, it's not the prettiest, or the best, but it could be worse.
Both 1.0 and 2.0 Shields have manual safety models. The 1.0 Shields are just as good imo, especially after the trigger is smoothed out by use. 1.0 also is more comfortable to carry due to less aggressive stippling. If capacity is truly a concern, use the Mag-guts +1 kits, then you can have 9 in the gun, 9 in the spare mag.
A smoker is just a braising with extra steps. As long as you have a vessel which can somewhat contain the steam from a small amount of water then all you have to do is add a significant amount of liquid smoke to the water while you braise.
Also you need to have an oven thermometer to make sure you know what temp the oven actually is. As I’m sure you know, the key to low to and slow is maintaining a consistent low temp.
Alton Brown had a recipe for oven ribs that I think uses aluminum foil as the cooking vessel, might be worth a DuckDuckGo search
Alton brown is a personal hero. He likes guns and has explained cooking science with puppets.
My goal is to recreate some asian 5 spice dry rub pork ribs that i had at a place one time. Nothing against traditional ribs which are delicious, but tender and juicy 5 spice ribs haunt mh fuckin' dreams.
Sig’s own Juliet3 pairs well with the Romeo5 you already have. It has reviewed well, and I’ll get one myself when I have the funds. Price is up there at $400 from Sig, but you may find it for less elsewhere.
Juliet 3 or 4 depending if you want 3x or 4x magnification are made to go with them, but the $150 Bushnell 3x magnifier that I bought years ago for the TRS-25 also works. Sig is better glass, but if on a budget Bushnell stuff may not win you friends at the range, but it tends to work and not be absolute shit.
No idea on the magnifiers. But yes you can make passable ribs in the oven. I don't personally know how but I've eaten them on numerous occasions at a friend's house. He makes em in a deep pan covered in foil I believe.
This is the way. Most of what fills my freezer and graces my family's plates was killed with my own hands. Hands holding a gun. Or a bow. Or a fishing rod. Or a ball peen hammer. You get the point.
Flank steak, thinly sliced, seared and tossed with onions, peppers, and garlic. Sprinkle some crayon bits and brasso for extra gud flavers.
Now you’ll want to get a nice hoagie roll and massacre it with a kabar. Pretends it’s Commie secret police coming with their soft hands to whinge and beg that you give al your property to the state because they’re scared. You won’t have to smell them shutting their pants unless you do it optionally you add to the experience. Open the bread longways, leaving a hinge, and lay it on some oil to toast.
Toss some cheese to melt on top of your glorious meat pepper medley and then throw the whole methbang into the roll. Salt and pepper over top. Eat it without napkins, naked, in your battle belt. Grease can be used to oil your guns.
Win user wasn't wrong but really if you're just doing a pan you want something you can sear off good and let rest covered in foil to redistribute the juices.
Think new york strip or equivalent. A nice thin rib eye is also fucking awesome. I adore a good steak sammich that way.
Also some thin pork chops or even a minute steak. Add a little breading and oil and you're off to the races.
Primary Arms 1-6x sfp ACSS scope. Excellent optic, not much heavier than a prism. SFP more durable, and if you're shooting past 300 you'll be on 6x anyway, making the reticle perfectly usable. Also is better at 1x
Call me a faggot all you want, once you go to a large charging handle you will wonder how to fuck you managed to ever charge your rifle with a milspec.
Ok, red dots for HD rifles. I want to have my HD rifle ready as can be but I find myself in a conondrum. It currently wears a SPARC AR (fuck china, I'd never buy another) and it's not a bad optic. My best red dot is an aimpoint T2 but that lives on the no frills uber reliable battle rifle. I have some sig romeo 5 dots with shake awake on random other rifles. If I need to shoot a squirrel invading my domicile in the night, will I have the time or the mental acuity to remember to turn on the dot? So the question is, move the aimpoint, keep it always on? Put a romeo on the HD rifle and hope shake awake works? Stick with the SPARC and put squirrel in the glass and send it with no dot?
Put a romeo on the HD rifle and hope shake awake works?
I've had an R5 on my 9mm AR pistol for like 18 months at this point? Every single time I pick up or move the gun (which is about once a week because of reasons), the dot is already on by the time I get my eye lined up to it to check. I've got no qualms at all about relying on it.
Put the T2 on the one rifle you are most likely to have to bet your life on some night.
Better yet, set that one up to be a bit more versatile and do all your training with it too. Or sell some stuff and put another T2 on whatever other rifle you feel scratches the general purpose itch.
Nothing wrong with having as many fun guns as you want, but for serious use you are better off training with just one, or two identical ones, or two that are as identical as possible. You want those to be as reliable as possible.
Really wanted a rifle so I picked up a basic little M&P sport that I've been putting furniture on and was looking at red dots and shit. Should I keep going and upgrade the internals and stockpile ammo or look for a better piece of hardware?
Also looking into starting to do some training, is pistol recommended over rifle since I EDC? Or would dirt medicine/survival training be appropriate for the upcoming hell world?
One last thing, is it a sin to cook a burger in a frying pan?
A decent optic is a requirement. However you don't have to spend a lot to get something decent. You can start out with a Bushnell TSR-25 and they're usually under $100 and will hold up and hold zero. Romeo 5 or MSR is the next step up at about $120 these days.
From there you start talking about something like a PA or Burris Prismatic Scope (or if your eyes have the 'tism) at $300 - $350 or LPVO from PA or Vortex that start at the same price.
My go to rifle is an old Stag Model 3 with a PA 3x Prismatic scope, magpul VFG, a TLR-1 light on an offset mount, and Magpul RLS sling. I've never done shit beyond that because it just fucking works.
Yeah people will give you shit for the TRS-25, but they're absolutely worth the money when you find them on sale. They're normally about $75, and I don't know if there have been deals in the past year, but I got one in 2018 for just $40. But be careful of the seller/retailer, as I've heard of fakes going around.
The two best upgrades for any rifle are to have more ammo, and to have shot more ammo.
If your training budget is cash rather than time limited, I'd say you want one reliable rifle (you're there) and then allocate resources to being good at using it.
Pistol course probably does have more immediate value that a carbine course, but get a basic one of each ASAP. There really is very little "advanced" material. Your goal at the course is to learn exactly what movements to practice, and how to practice them correctly.
Real skill then comes from taking that knowledge and actually practicing -- 99% of that can be done in your basement without expending any ammo. Individual skills are mostly a question of building muscle memory.
Once you get that down then it's less about becoming a better shooter and more about learning basic tactics, how to coordinate with other people, etc.
A stop the bleed course is definitely a good idea. You are probably more likely to save a life that way than with a gun, statistically speaking.
Survival training depends on your area. Any chance of finding yourself innawoods? This is an area with lots of good books available, and you can safely just go try the skills. It's harder than it sounds to start a fire in adverse situation though, so you do want to get some hands on.
You can start to do your own research and training any time. Start by reading. Get a good bush medicine book and read it.
I'd honestly buy a lower or two right now and then build from there your AR. Keep your smith as a few ARs are good to have. Personally i am a yuge fan of palmetto state armory.
As to training go with pistol. It's the hardest to master and the one gun you can always have under your golden girls t shirt and rhodesian short shorts. Many of the things you can apply to pistol training apply to rifle as most shootings in self defense are close range. Plus the rifle is inherently easier to shoot.
And fuck no it's no sin to cook a burger in a pan. Real talk? Get a burger weight. Makes a huge difference in well shaped juicy burgers.
M&P sport is a great rifle. Get good furniture and a Larue MBT-2 trigger and it'll run with anything else out there. Focus on ammo after that, imo.
Pistol > Rifle > Advanced Pistol/Rifle
Only upgrade rifle further after some classes. Adding a free-floated hand guard and re-using the original barrel would be the only major upgrade needed for a modern, far-forward grip. Only do this after maxing out your capabilities with what you have now, though. (My first rifle was a PSA freedom stainless build, basic everything/detachable irons. I was placing in the top half of local club matches against BCMs/JPs before building a better rifle)
a Stop the Bleed course is better than nothing, but I think that everyone should do to at least one first-aid class that covers wound packing, chest seals, ect. Survival training can be done online or through books imo, then just go out camping and practice/test your gear.
Burgers on a frying pan are perfectly acceptable out in the bush or on a rainy day inside
I say 100. Dead on at 100 and build a dope card for however far your little gerbil sized hands can accurately shoot. As for mil vs MOA I don't know shit cuz I'm a MOA guy. I've seen some shit on high power target scopes that look like a Christmas tree fucked a squid and the reticle is what came out 9 months later
I think ACSS is meant for 100yd zero? If you have the strelock app, you can chrono your load/rifle and find out exactly what distances the ACSS drops are at for your setup
If you have an app feeding you solutions based on a 100 yard zero then that is the obvious choice.
Personally, I tend to zero most rifles closet to 200 though. Usually that is pretty close to giving you maximum point blank range -- ie anything inside of about 250 won't require any adjustment at all with that setup, but with a 100 yard zero you will have to dial even at 200.
There is nothing really special about the mil system. 3.43 mils is one MOA. It's kind of like measuring in meters vs yards, but for angles -- you're just using different units.
MOA is often thought of in terms of inches per hundred yards. This works well at close range, though it's actually about 1.047 inches per 100 yards, and this error becomes significant at longer ranges. The main convenience here though is if you measure ranges in yards and are close enough that your adjustments will be measured in inches.
1 MIL is 3.6 inches at 100 yards. The trick here is to notice that 100 yards is 3600 inches. There is the beauty of the MIL system -- one MIL of distance on the scope is marking out 1/1000 of the distance to the target. Looking at something at 100 feet? Those dots are 0.1 feet apart on the target. 1000 meters? Dots are 1 meter apart.
Either way though, if you are making adjustments for wind, or otherwise looking at point if impact and adjusting through your scope, it's helpful to not think about units or even ranges very much. You have dots in the scope. You have clicks in the turrets. Equate one to the other -- this many clicks equals this many dots. This applies no matter what units the angles are measured in.
Is hole over spec, or is the QD connector you are plugging into the hole under spec?
Does anyone even know what the spec actually is?
I've never taken calipers to them, but something tells me those little QD things probably have somewhat loose tolerances -- almost certainly looser than the tolerances machined into the rifle lower (though out of spec parts do happen).
Your best solution is probably to try a few different brands of connectors and find one with the tightness you want.
Why even past 2004? I'd argue that the mini was never relevant aside from the AC556 full auto variant due to current cost. AR's are cheaper and are objectively better in every metric. A Galil, CZ, Sig 550, Tavor, AUG, 5.56 AK, or a Robinson XCR are all better alternative platforms, and are more interesting imo.
The only thing it has ever done is provide comedy when dumbass fuds compare it to the AR.
There used to be threads on arfcom that talked about that a very long time ago that were highly amusing as people tried to say the mini was more reliable and accurate than the AR. Good times!
Fun facts, that dead cunt bill ruger sr supported the '94 cosmetic features ban and didn't think anyone needed over 10 rounds.
They're an ok rifle. Works well for plinking and maybe as a yote gun. Also works well enough for HD in a pinch. Would I go out and buy one for that purpose? No, there's way better options out there that are cheaper, especially right now. But if you want a fun rifle that has a more classic charm to play with it's not bad.
Some of you may have seen my post about not being allowed to carry a concealed zapper at work larger than my dick. I'm taking real suggestions about what I should buy.
2 10 rounds minimum, nothing smaller than 9mm
3)needs to be super reliable
max price $600ish
must have a manual safety (meth demands it because kids or something?)
I'm going to cerakote it a solid color, make recommendatikna
compare said gun to someone famous and why
What you said there sounds like the sig 365 with a manual safety.
It's all those things and about $600 or under.
Honestly it sounds like jackie chan if he wasn't a worthless commie shill. Something small you can whip out and do damage with and then it goes away.
Heckler & Koch Mk23 with optional LAM and suppressor. Tell people it is your dick. Whip it out as often as possible. Wear a bandana made from 25ft of cloth. Bonus yard and office pops with nobody able to claim hearing damage.
It’s Jessie the Bod Ventura of guns. A fucking sexual Tyrannosaurus.
Also keep a cardboard box near by so you can get the jump on intruders.
Steppers hate him for this one weird trick!
^^^^ this 100x
Glock 43x/48 inna holster. Cerakote it clear.
Gaston made it, it's Gaston
Raven 25, use the extra $575 dollars for ammo and training.
Seriously tho. If you don't go with the Glock 43 because it's lacking a manual safety (or hate how it feels in the hand like I do) check out the Shield, they're both real popular for a reason. The Hellcat's not bad but I still hate Springfield armory and anything else is just not so much better than the 43 or shield for the dosh.
Fairly sure the shield has a manual safety variant, I know the shield EZ does so I see no reason the basic shield wouldn't. "Cerakote color" is Enamel Rustoleum Red. Spray it, bake it, tuck it. Comparison.... Ryan Reynolds... No real reason it should be popular, it's not the prettiest, or the best, but it could be worse.
Both 1.0 and 2.0 Shields have manual safety models. The 1.0 Shields are just as good imo, especially after the trigger is smoothed out by use. 1.0 also is more comfortable to carry due to less aggressive stippling. If capacity is truly a concern, use the Mag-guts +1 kits, then you can have 9 in the gun, 9 in the spare mag.
Sig 365 or glawk 26. Neither of which have manual safety. You could get a 9mm 1911 micro and be a fudd with a tiny weiner.
I'd like to add magnifiiers to red dots. My standard dot is the sig Romeo5. What co witnesses with that shit?
Also, i want to try a holosight but don't have $500. What do?
Finally, can decent ribs be done in a gas oven? I don't have a smoker.
A smoker is just a braising with extra steps. As long as you have a vessel which can somewhat contain the steam from a small amount of water then all you have to do is add a significant amount of liquid smoke to the water while you braise.
Also you need to have an oven thermometer to make sure you know what temp the oven actually is. As I’m sure you know, the key to low to and slow is maintaining a consistent low temp.
Alton Brown had a recipe for oven ribs that I think uses aluminum foil as the cooking vessel, might be worth a DuckDuckGo search
Alton brown is a personal hero. He likes guns and has explained cooking science with puppets.
My goal is to recreate some asian 5 spice dry rub pork ribs that i had at a place one time. Nothing against traditional ribs which are delicious, but tender and juicy 5 spice ribs haunt mh fuckin' dreams.
Sig’s own Juliet3 pairs well with the Romeo5 you already have. It has reviewed well, and I’ll get one myself when I have the funds. Price is up there at $400 from Sig, but you may find it for less elsewhere.
Juliet 3 or 4 depending if you want 3x or 4x magnification are made to go with them, but the $150 Bushnell 3x magnifier that I bought years ago for the TRS-25 also works. Sig is better glass, but if on a budget Bushnell stuff may not win you friends at the range, but it tends to work and not be absolute shit.
Bro.... I made Instapot ribs that were facking funtastic. Seriously.
4 hour cook time. Finish in the oven for ribs that literally fall off the bone.
I have been curious about insta pots. I have an air fryer that doesn't get the use it deserves. I dunno.
No idea on the magnifiers. But yes you can make passable ribs in the oven. I don't personally know how but I've eaten them on numerous occasions at a friend's house. He makes em in a deep pan covered in foil I believe.
mostly for scruffy, favorite cut of meat for pan cooking/no oven?
Anything you killed yourself. Also no pan required, spit roast that critter over an open fire
That's barbarian as fuck.
Well done.
Sights and sounds experienced cooking like that add to the meal immensely.
This is the way. Most of what fills my freezer and graces my family's plates was killed with my own hands. Hands holding a gun. Or a bow. Or a fishing rod. Or a ball peen hammer. You get the point.
Or my penis.
Don’t ask questions that you don’t want answers to.
Flank steak, thinly sliced, seared and tossed with onions, peppers, and garlic. Sprinkle some crayon bits and brasso for extra gud flavers.
Now you’ll want to get a nice hoagie roll and massacre it with a kabar. Pretends it’s Commie secret police coming with their soft hands to whinge and beg that you give al your property to the state because they’re scared. You won’t have to smell them shutting their pants unless you do it optionally you add to the experience. Open the bread longways, leaving a hinge, and lay it on some oil to toast.
Toss some cheese to melt on top of your glorious meat pepper medley and then throw the whole methbang into the roll. Salt and pepper over top. Eat it without napkins, naked, in your battle belt. Grease can be used to oil your guns.
Godsdamn that's cool
Ah, i see you are a patrioTIST, as well.
Win user wasn't wrong but really if you're just doing a pan you want something you can sear off good and let rest covered in foil to redistribute the juices.
Think new york strip or equivalent. A nice thin rib eye is also fucking awesome. I adore a good steak sammich that way.
Also some thin pork chops or even a minute steak. Add a little breading and oil and you're off to the races.
Good luck fren!
For a pan only it's gotta be sausages. With some onions and peppers in a cast iron skillet that's older than ur grandma.
What's a good less expensive alternative to an acog for a 308 rifle?
Primary Arms 1-6x sfp ACSS scope. Excellent optic, not much heavier than a prism. SFP more durable, and if you're shooting past 300 you'll be on 6x anyway, making the reticle perfectly usable. Also is better at 1x
PA 3x Prismatic Scope ~$300.
2nd on the primary arms.
Are you a faggot for putting a Gucci charging handle on your AR or did you put a Gucci charging handle on your AR because you’re a faggot?
Neither. The raptor is oh so schweet.
But that’s, like...8/10 of a hipoint
Call me a faggot all you want, once you go to a large charging handle you will wonder how to fuck you managed to ever charge your rifle with a milspec.
I’ll be honest I’m pretty buy-curious on an oversized CH. Too bad the PSA ones are always OOS
Ok, red dots for HD rifles. I want to have my HD rifle ready as can be but I find myself in a conondrum. It currently wears a SPARC AR (fuck china, I'd never buy another) and it's not a bad optic. My best red dot is an aimpoint T2 but that lives on the no frills uber reliable battle rifle. I have some sig romeo 5 dots with shake awake on random other rifles. If I need to shoot a squirrel invading my domicile in the night, will I have the time or the mental acuity to remember to turn on the dot? So the question is, move the aimpoint, keep it always on? Put a romeo on the HD rifle and hope shake awake works? Stick with the SPARC and put squirrel in the glass and send it with no dot?
Romeo is still commie made i believe but what else you gonna do if you don't have $400?
I like the romeo 5 a bunch. Works well. Reasonable price.
I've had an R5 on my 9mm AR pistol for like 18 months at this point? Every single time I pick up or move the gun (which is about once a week because of reasons), the dot is already on by the time I get my eye lined up to it to check. I've got no qualms at all about relying on it.
Put the T2 on the one rifle you are most likely to have to bet your life on some night.
Better yet, set that one up to be a bit more versatile and do all your training with it too. Or sell some stuff and put another T2 on whatever other rifle you feel scratches the general purpose itch.
Nothing wrong with having as many fun guns as you want, but for serious use you are better off training with just one, or two identical ones, or two that are as identical as possible. You want those to be as reliable as possible.
Folding adapters for an AR. I don't want to spend law tactical kinda money. Do i have any options besides selling plasma/sperm?
I keep offering that stuff to people in jars but they don't seem interested.
Sylvan arms adapter. Sub $200, but still not cheap. Works well.
Really wanted a rifle so I picked up a basic little M&P sport that I've been putting furniture on and was looking at red dots and shit. Should I keep going and upgrade the internals and stockpile ammo or look for a better piece of hardware?
Also looking into starting to do some training, is pistol recommended over rifle since I EDC? Or would dirt medicine/survival training be appropriate for the upcoming hell world?
One last thing, is it a sin to cook a burger in a frying pan?
A decent optic is a requirement. However you don't have to spend a lot to get something decent. You can start out with a Bushnell TSR-25 and they're usually under $100 and will hold up and hold zero. Romeo 5 or MSR is the next step up at about $120 these days.
From there you start talking about something like a PA or Burris Prismatic Scope (or if your eyes have the 'tism) at $300 - $350 or LPVO from PA or Vortex that start at the same price.
My go to rifle is an old Stag Model 3 with a PA 3x Prismatic scope, magpul VFG, a TLR-1 light on an offset mount, and Magpul RLS sling. I've never done shit beyond that because it just fucking works.
Yeah people will give you shit for the TRS-25, but they're absolutely worth the money when you find them on sale. They're normally about $75, and I don't know if there have been deals in the past year, but I got one in 2018 for just $40. But be careful of the seller/retailer, as I've heard of fakes going around.
The two best upgrades for any rifle are to have more ammo, and to have shot more ammo.
If your training budget is cash rather than time limited, I'd say you want one reliable rifle (you're there) and then allocate resources to being good at using it.
Pistol course probably does have more immediate value that a carbine course, but get a basic one of each ASAP. There really is very little "advanced" material. Your goal at the course is to learn exactly what movements to practice, and how to practice them correctly.
Real skill then comes from taking that knowledge and actually practicing -- 99% of that can be done in your basement without expending any ammo. Individual skills are mostly a question of building muscle memory.
Once you get that down then it's less about becoming a better shooter and more about learning basic tactics, how to coordinate with other people, etc.
A stop the bleed course is definitely a good idea. You are probably more likely to save a life that way than with a gun, statistically speaking.
Survival training depends on your area. Any chance of finding yourself innawoods? This is an area with lots of good books available, and you can safely just go try the skills. It's harder than it sounds to start a fire in adverse situation though, so you do want to get some hands on.
You can start to do your own research and training any time. Start by reading. Get a good bush medicine book and read it.
I'd honestly buy a lower or two right now and then build from there your AR. Keep your smith as a few ARs are good to have. Personally i am a yuge fan of palmetto state armory.
As to training go with pistol. It's the hardest to master and the one gun you can always have under your golden girls t shirt and rhodesian short shorts. Many of the things you can apply to pistol training apply to rifle as most shootings in self defense are close range. Plus the rifle is inherently easier to shoot.
And fuck no it's no sin to cook a burger in a pan. Real talk? Get a burger weight. Makes a huge difference in well shaped juicy burgers.
Will loaded drum work as burger weight?
M&P sport is a great rifle. Get good furniture and a Larue MBT-2 trigger and it'll run with anything else out there. Focus on ammo after that, imo.
Pistol > Rifle > Advanced Pistol/Rifle
Only upgrade rifle further after some classes. Adding a free-floated hand guard and re-using the original barrel would be the only major upgrade needed for a modern, far-forward grip. Only do this after maxing out your capabilities with what you have now, though. (My first rifle was a PSA freedom stainless build, basic everything/detachable irons. I was placing in the top half of local club matches against BCMs/JPs before building a better rifle)
a Stop the Bleed course is better than nothing, but I think that everyone should do to at least one first-aid class that covers wound packing, chest seals, ect. Survival training can be done online or through books imo, then just go out camping and practice/test your gear.
Burgers on a frying pan are perfectly acceptable out in the bush or on a rainy day inside
.30-06 with a 20MOA rail & PA 4-14x44 FFP mil-dot scope: zero for 100 yards or 200 yards?
Also any good resources for figuring out mildot as I've never used it before. I've always shot MOA scopes in the past.
I say 100. Dead on at 100 and build a dope card for however far your little gerbil sized hands can accurately shoot. As for mil vs MOA I don't know shit cuz I'm a MOA guy. I've seen some shit on high power target scopes that look like a Christmas tree fucked a squid and the reticle is what came out 9 months later
I think ACSS is meant for 100yd zero? If you have the strelock app, you can chrono your load/rifle and find out exactly what distances the ACSS drops are at for your setup
I think you're right, I'll take a look at the app.
If you have an app feeding you solutions based on a 100 yard zero then that is the obvious choice.
Personally, I tend to zero most rifles closet to 200 though. Usually that is pretty close to giving you maximum point blank range -- ie anything inside of about 250 won't require any adjustment at all with that setup, but with a 100 yard zero you will have to dial even at 200.
There is nothing really special about the mil system. 3.43 mils is one MOA. It's kind of like measuring in meters vs yards, but for angles -- you're just using different units.
MOA is often thought of in terms of inches per hundred yards. This works well at close range, though it's actually about 1.047 inches per 100 yards, and this error becomes significant at longer ranges. The main convenience here though is if you measure ranges in yards and are close enough that your adjustments will be measured in inches.
1 MIL is 3.6 inches at 100 yards. The trick here is to notice that 100 yards is 3600 inches. There is the beauty of the MIL system -- one MIL of distance on the scope is marking out 1/1000 of the distance to the target. Looking at something at 100 feet? Those dots are 0.1 feet apart on the target. 1000 meters? Dots are 1 meter apart.
Either way though, if you are making adjustments for wind, or otherwise looking at point if impact and adjusting through your scope, it's helpful to not think about units or even ranges very much. You have dots in the scope. You have clicks in the turrets. Equate one to the other -- this many clicks equals this many dots. This applies no matter what units the angles are measured in.
M5 stock quick disconnect hole is loose. Why are they gae?
Is hole over spec, or is the QD connector you are plugging into the hole under spec?
Does anyone even know what the spec actually is?
I've never taken calipers to them, but something tells me those little QD things probably have somewhat loose tolerances -- almost certainly looser than the tolerances machined into the rifle lower (though out of spec parts do happen).
Your best solution is probably to try a few different brands of connectors and find one with the tightness you want.
This solution also works with meth
Why even past 2004? I'd argue that the mini was never relevant aside from the AC556 full auto variant due to current cost. AR's are cheaper and are objectively better in every metric. A Galil, CZ, Sig 550, Tavor, AUG, 5.56 AK, or a Robinson XCR are all better alternative platforms, and are more interesting imo.
I should have bought a sig55x when i had the chance.....
Lol what thoughts about the mini?
I forgot they even still made that thing.
The only thing it has ever done is provide comedy when dumbass fuds compare it to the AR.
There used to be threads on arfcom that talked about that a very long time ago that were highly amusing as people tried to say the mini was more reliable and accurate than the AR. Good times!
Fun facts, that dead cunt bill ruger sr supported the '94 cosmetic features ban and didn't think anyone needed over 10 rounds.
Fuck his dead legacy and fuck the mini.
They're an ok rifle. Works well for plinking and maybe as a yote gun. Also works well enough for HD in a pinch. Would I go out and buy one for that purpose? No, there's way better options out there that are cheaper, especially right now. But if you want a fun rifle that has a more classic charm to play with it's not bad.
This site doesn’t seem very good on mobile. At least not on a flip phone.
Neither is your mom